Astypalea’s Chora, or capital.
Ed Moskalenko | Getty Photos
The tiny, butterfly-shaped Greek island of Astypalea has all of the components for a soothing trip: myriad seashores with clear waters, nice seafood and a fort perched above a standard white city with winding alleys and views throughout the Aegean Sea.
It is also much less developed than its bigger neighbors like Rhodes and Kos, and with a inhabitants of simply 1,400, Astypalea made for a calming vacation vacation spot once I visited in June.
Among the lanes within the island’s Chora — or capital — are so small that donkeys carry development instruments to hard-to-reach constructing websites, however the mode of transport most noticeable on Astypalea is a fleet of electrical minibuses, a part of a scheme referred to as AstyBus — an uncommon sight for the Greek islands.
It is value beginning a visit to the island by visiting the stays of the fifteenth century Venetian fort excessive above the Chora, which was constructed on the positioning of different constructions together with from the Roman and Byzantine eras. From there I walked down in the direction of the eight conventional, red-roofed windmills on the centre of the city, initially constructed to mill grain within the thirteenth and 14th centuries. On the backside of the hill is the island’s small however fascinating Archaeological Museum, with artefacts from the pre-historic interval to the Center Ages.
To start with, I used the bus to get from the underside of the Chora to the highest when it was too scorching to stroll up its winding streets, earlier than exploring additional.
Agios Dimitrios church within the village of Maltezana, Astypalea
Lucy Handley
My first cease was Maltezana, a winding 20-minute bus trip from the Chora, and Astypalea’s second-largest settlement. I disembarked a cease or two inland to look inside Agios Dimitros, a small church reverse Maltezana’s grocery retailer. Whereas the church is painted within the conventional blue and white fashion on the skin, it’s ornately-decorated inside, with bible scenes in blue and gold on its partitions and ceiling.
A brief stroll from the church, a string of eating places line a slim seaside. Its clear, shallow waters have been nice to wade into after lazing below one of many scrubby timber on the sand.
Over the subsequent few days I visited extra seashores utilizing the AstyBus: Schinonta, a quiet bay alongside from Maltezana, and tree-lined Livadi, which is simply over the hill from the Chora, and has a couple of eating places proper on the seaside.
The bus initiative is a part of a grand plan to show Astypalea right into a “sensible and sustainable island” — a partnership between the Greek authorities and Volkswagen. It claims to be a first of its sort initiative for the Greek islands, and goals to switch conventional combustion-engine automobiles with electric-powered vehicles, and help an total shift to renewable vitality.
Authorities wish to hold the island unspoiled, placing the deal with sustainability and average improvement.
Volkswagen equipped electrical minibuses to Astypalea, a part of an initiative for the island to turn into “sensible and sustainable.”
Lucy Handley
Alongside the EVs, a hybrid energy station is being constructed. In an interview with CNBC, Astypalea’s mayor Nikolaos Komineas stated it should cowl greater than 50% of the island’s vitality wants through the summer season, with plans for wind era too.
Komineas additionally needs to cut back the variety of single-use plastic bottles by making faucet water protected to drink and having resorts and different lodging suppliers supply reusable water bottles. “My dream is that by the tip of 2027, early 2028, all of these new infrastructures are going to be on the island,” he stated.
An out-of-the-way seaside
Having traveled by bus to a number of seashores, I wished to go someplace extra distant. I would seen images of Vatses, a seaside on the tip of the left-hand wing of the Astypalea butterfly; a large, sandy bay bordered by sparse, rocky cliffs. I wanted a automobile for the journey because it was out of Astybus’s protection space, and employed an EV — a VW ID.3 — utilizing the AstyGO app. I uploaded my driver’s license and bank card to the app, which then makes use of Bluetooth to entry automobiles.
Whereas the automobile was clean to drive, moving into it was much less so, with the app needing to be rebooted earlier than the automobile would begin, and a lot of the directions on the dashboard being in Greek solely.
The drive to Vatses was not for the faint-hearted: an unsealed street gave technique to a slim monitor with a steep drop on one aspect. However the seaside was stunning and resembled its images, with a restaurant on one aspect serving Greek salads, espresso and cocktails, plus solar loungers for hire and timber to lie below — a simple place to spend the afternoon.
Vatses seaside on Astypalea, Greece, is accessed through an unsealed street.
George Papapostolou | Second Open | Getty Photos
Accessing the automobile for the return journey additionally proved tough. Having been on the seaside for a number of hours, I would been robotically logged out of the AstyGO app, and with out 5G telephone sign I could not open the automobile door, not to mention begin the engine. Fortuitously, the cafe had Wi-Fi, and I used to be in a position to drive again up the rocky street — trailing a goat for a part of the way in which.
Safely again within the Chora, I loved an al-fresco dinner at Navagos, which has a tapas-style fashionable Greek menu that included locally-made sausages with baked potatoes and slow-cooked chickpeas with lemon sauce. For pastries or dessert, a favourite cafe was Glykia, a bit of means up the hill previous the Chora’s seaside.
Even in June, Astypalea felt like like a neighborhood’s island, and a longtime customer described it as being “like Santorini 20 years in the past.”
Overtourism is an enormous drawback for some Greek islands, with the mayor of Santorini (about 100km west of Astypalea) describing the strain of tens of millions of tourists as changing into “insufferable,” in an interview with the Guardian final 12 months.
Astypalea receives round 32,000 to 36,000 vacationers a 12 months, in response to the mayor’s workplace. Santorini, alternatively, which is round three-quarters of the dimensions, welcomes upwards of 3-million guests.
Astypalea takes a more-balanced strategy in the direction of tourism. The mayor and the native authorities turned down a proposal to construct 200 villas on the island final 12 months. “We do not desire a crowded island,” he stated. “We do not wish to spoil the island in any respect. We wish to hold the character as it’s.”

